Monday, December 3, 2012

Holiday Bustle ...

3 of the 6 grandkids along with 2 of the 3 sewing machines in the room ...
With so many victorian themed events popping up during Christmas & New Years , I thought I would share my bustle I make up for myself & others . It is based on antique hip-form bustle pads I have seen , and resembles in no way the couch-bolster pillows with ties that are seen being sold as bustle pads everywhere .
I start by cutting each one with the shape ( or lack there of ) of the person that will be wearing it . I free hand cut 3 elongated crescent shapes out of two layes of a fine cotton twill weave .
I make each layer by sandwiching high loft batting between fabric & serging the edge . Then I run a row of stitching aprox 1/2 inch from that edge to secure the batting.
I then pleat & secure the upper edge of each pad to get the contour I am needing for the dress & person wearing it .
 This lady is quite tall & thin with little curve at the hip or behind , so I bulked up the undermost layer :
I only attach the points to the waist tape , this makes for a cooler garment & less bulk where there tends to be layers of closings already .
Then I attach the 2nd layer in the same manner ;
and then the 3rd:
It is shown above on the front of my dress form to illustrate how the extra bulk underneith will help build up the rear .
Of course using one of the vintage machines makes for a better time sewing & is good for them to run & feel needed ; )
Plus the top-of-the-line Husqvarna Diamond beeps & stops & sends me hate mail on it's screen if I sew over pleated layers of tighly woven twill . "Main motor overload" , really ? Computers ...
Have a great time sewing this holiday season & ask for a vintage machine from Santa !